> I highly recommend not bothering at all with legitimate hardware. As I’ll dive deeper into in this guide, original hardware is expensive, hard to use with a modern TV, and prone to breaking. Retro game cartridges and discs are often more expensive than modern games. Retro consoles can often be very expensive too.
It really depends. My father found my old consoles in the loft and I decided to get them working.
- PlayStation 1,2 and Dreamcast are easy to get, easily to repair. Normally the biggest problem will be CD/DVD-ROM drive that is bad. These consoles are extremely reliable other than the DVD/CD drive. Repairing such as this are simple and can be done in literally minutes, with a screw driver.
- Games are relatively inexpensive for PS1, PS2 and Dreamcast. Yes Marvel vs Capcom 2 and Castlevania Symphony of the night will £500 for a copy, but the vast majority of games can be found in Good Condition for £5-20. Absolute mint condition games will be about £30-50. I buy a couple of games a month for each console and have a nice small collection of classic games (not anything too crazy, but decent).
- I was missing cables for the consoles (long since lost). I got official controllers, and cables for reasonable amount of money. Memory cards were cheap. I did have to take apart the old controllers and service them, but again nothing major.
- If you have a slightly older (late-2000s/early-2010s) LCD TV, the upscaler will actually work properly and the games look pretty reasonable. You can get HDMI upscalers for a reasonable price for these consoles. Cheap upscalers can be bought online for PS1/PS2 and Dreamcast and the results are "OK".
Emulation is obviously easier, with a few caveats. You must find a BIOS for the PS1 and PS2. These can be easily found with some googling. Also DuckStation has licensing doesn't allow it to be repackaged for your <linux distro>, so you have to use their app image or download & compile yourself. Which is a bit annoying, as I don't really know what to do with AppImages.
Cheap generic upscalers add significant latency and worse non-consistent latency. It might be OK for a turn based RPG like Persona 3, but it will drive you mad for games like DDR, Guitar Hero or heavily action based games.
As I said the results were "ok". Obviously you would need to buy a retrotink or something similar to have the best results but all but the most expensive models are often out of stock.
The biggest issue is that some stretch picture IMO. The latency is greatly exaggerated IME. I just used an older TV with a built in good upscaler (newer TV have worse upscalers).
IDK, when I tried one DKC was completely unplayable. For some games it's very important. This has been a well documented problem with the cheap scalers.
They have other issues too and RetroRGB has a good video going over the problems:
Not all TVs support 240p over component either, especially from the late 2000s/early 2010s which means you can run into problems with some PS1 games on a PS2 or earlier consoles.
Not true, at least not in this all encompassing clickbait sense. $25 buys you a hackable R36S with 4 core cpu, 1gb ram, runs Debian off dual microsd with dual usb-c for any peripherials, swappable battery, emulation perf up to PSX. There are many more cheap, capable options.
I'd say "retro console" in the linux handheld sense is the best value hobby gadget to buy for the HN crowd.
I went down this rabbit hole, and am now the proud owner of a PS2 (Slim), a PS2 (Fat), a PS3 (Fat), a PS4 Pro and a PS5. I also own a Nintendo Switch and a Gaming PC.
After installing a custom firmware on the PS3, I am now able to play my PS2 games, and also have the benefit of using HDMI without an expensive upscaler.
Turns out, the PS3 satisfied my needs to relive childhood memories, although I never had one as a kid growing up.
Also, I started reading books again. A pretty hassle-free childhood memory, to say the least.
> "For Wii it’s better to use a Wii U, because they support HDMI."
If you are going to buy a Wii U for wii games, make sure you buy one that actually has a gamepad, since they are useless without one (efforts are currently underway to make a working replacement, but currently you need a whole computer to pretend to be one)
Eh, while they do need a Wii U Game Pad, once you're past setup you don't really need it except for a handful of games. Maybe to do the occasional settings change. If you're just using it as a Wii you can also press B on the Wii Remote while booting to boot straight into Wii Mode too.
I wouldn't recommend it for non-technical people, but people here would probably be fine.
I'm surprised the author finds emulation not worth covering, that's obviously the best way to play old games in the vast majority of cases. I guess maybe they wanted to keep up the kayfabe that everyone is getting roms from the original media.
> For Nintendo games specifically, the way to play them is to buy a Nintendo Switch or Nintendo Switch 2 and subscribe to the Nintendo Switch Online service for $20
Unless you absolutely need to play these games away from home and a phone isn't good enough, please just emulate on a computer instead of paying a subscription for some mediocre emulators that you can't even own permanently.
Also, the article really should mention why cheap generic HDMI converters are bad instead of just saying they're not recommended (the lower video quality is obvious, but what's less obvious is that they usually have significant latency that may make certain types of games much less pleasant to play)
I think you misunderstood; they were talking about your switch running an emulator for legacy games via subscription vs running that for no subscription on your phone and/or computer
Mister FPGA is something definitely worth checking out if you're into this stuff.
> I highly recommend not bothering at all with legitimate hardware. As I’ll dive deeper into in this guide, original hardware is expensive, hard to use with a modern TV, and prone to breaking. Retro game cartridges and discs are often more expensive than modern games. Retro consoles can often be very expensive too.
It really depends. My father found my old consoles in the loft and I decided to get them working.
- PlayStation 1,2 and Dreamcast are easy to get, easily to repair. Normally the biggest problem will be CD/DVD-ROM drive that is bad. These consoles are extremely reliable other than the DVD/CD drive. Repairing such as this are simple and can be done in literally minutes, with a screw driver.
- Games are relatively inexpensive for PS1, PS2 and Dreamcast. Yes Marvel vs Capcom 2 and Castlevania Symphony of the night will £500 for a copy, but the vast majority of games can be found in Good Condition for £5-20. Absolute mint condition games will be about £30-50. I buy a couple of games a month for each console and have a nice small collection of classic games (not anything too crazy, but decent).
- I was missing cables for the consoles (long since lost). I got official controllers, and cables for reasonable amount of money. Memory cards were cheap. I did have to take apart the old controllers and service them, but again nothing major.
- If you have a slightly older (late-2000s/early-2010s) LCD TV, the upscaler will actually work properly and the games look pretty reasonable. You can get HDMI upscalers for a reasonable price for these consoles. Cheap upscalers can be bought online for PS1/PS2 and Dreamcast and the results are "OK".
Emulation is obviously easier, with a few caveats. You must find a BIOS for the PS1 and PS2. These can be easily found with some googling. Also DuckStation has licensing doesn't allow it to be repackaged for your <linux distro>, so you have to use their app image or download & compile yourself. Which is a bit annoying, as I don't really know what to do with AppImages.
Cheap generic upscalers add significant latency and worse non-consistent latency. It might be OK for a turn based RPG like Persona 3, but it will drive you mad for games like DDR, Guitar Hero or heavily action based games.
As I said the results were "ok". Obviously you would need to buy a retrotink or something similar to have the best results but all but the most expensive models are often out of stock.
The biggest issue is that some stretch picture IMO. The latency is greatly exaggerated IME. I just used an older TV with a built in good upscaler (newer TV have worse upscalers).
IDK, when I tried one DKC was completely unplayable. For some games it's very important. This has been a well documented problem with the cheap scalers.
They have other issues too and RetroRGB has a good video going over the problems:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUrqWN4AcJc
Not all TVs support 240p over component either, especially from the late 2000s/early 2010s which means you can run into problems with some PS1 games on a PS2 or earlier consoles.
https://www.hdretrovision.com/240p
These days there are clones of the RetroTink 2s and options like the ODV GBS-C that are decently priced and good options.
Not true, at least not in this all encompassing clickbait sense. $25 buys you a hackable R36S with 4 core cpu, 1gb ram, runs Debian off dual microsd with dual usb-c for any peripherials, swappable battery, emulation perf up to PSX. There are many more cheap, capable options.
I'd say "retro console" in the linux handheld sense is the best value hobby gadget to buy for the HN crowd.
I went down this rabbit hole, and am now the proud owner of a PS2 (Slim), a PS2 (Fat), a PS3 (Fat), a PS4 Pro and a PS5. I also own a Nintendo Switch and a Gaming PC.
After installing a custom firmware on the PS3, I am now able to play my PS2 games, and also have the benefit of using HDMI without an expensive upscaler.
Turns out, the PS3 satisfied my needs to relive childhood memories, although I never had one as a kid growing up.
Also, I started reading books again. A pretty hassle-free childhood memory, to say the least.
> "For Wii it’s better to use a Wii U, because they support HDMI."
If you are going to buy a Wii U for wii games, make sure you buy one that actually has a gamepad, since they are useless without one (efforts are currently underway to make a working replacement, but currently you need a whole computer to pretend to be one)
Eh, while they do need a Wii U Game Pad, once you're past setup you don't really need it except for a handful of games. Maybe to do the occasional settings change. If you're just using it as a Wii you can also press B on the Wii Remote while booting to boot straight into Wii Mode too.
I wouldn't recommend it for non-technical people, but people here would probably be fine.
I'm surprised the author finds emulation not worth covering, that's obviously the best way to play old games in the vast majority of cases. I guess maybe they wanted to keep up the kayfabe that everyone is getting roms from the original media.
> For Nintendo games specifically, the way to play them is to buy a Nintendo Switch or Nintendo Switch 2 and subscribe to the Nintendo Switch Online service for $20
Unless you absolutely need to play these games away from home and a phone isn't good enough, please just emulate on a computer instead of paying a subscription for some mediocre emulators that you can't even own permanently.
Also, the article really should mention why cheap generic HDMI converters are bad instead of just saying they're not recommended (the lower video quality is obvious, but what's less obvious is that they usually have significant latency that may make certain types of games much less pleasant to play)
Switch 2 is not emulable currently, and likely won't be in a very good while.
I think you misunderstood; they were talking about your switch running an emulator for legacy games via subscription vs running that for no subscription on your phone and/or computer